Meet the Cheese Maven:  From Deli Delights to Artisanal Accolades

June 6, 2024
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Ever.Ag

Many may know of Beyonce’s success in the music industry, but Brieyoncé serves a similar role in the cheese industry – inspiring, innovating, and influencing. Despite the “cheesy” moniker, Ashley Morton has built serious credentials within the cheese world as an affineur, cheesemaker, cheese monger, educator, and influencer.

From naïve cheese lover to renowned artisanal cheese maker

Some of Morton’s earliest memories of cheese include going to the deli or the supermarket with [her] parents and getting slices of provolone or mozzarella in her hometown of New York City.

“I had what I consider a very traditional American relationship with cheese,” Morton said. She remembers when she considered roquefort, asiago, and camembert to be fancy.

Morton’s lack of cheese pedigree makes her rise to stardom surprising and proves that anyone can learn about and enjoy cheese.

Although Morton always loved cheese, she never considered working with food in any shape, form, or fashion as a career. Luckily for the cheese world, this changed when Morton accepted a job at Murray’s Cheese in New York City.

Although Morton always loved cheese, she never considered working with food in any shape, form, or fashion as a career. Luckily for the cheese world, this changed when Morton accepted a job at Murray’s Cheese in New York City.  

Developing an appreciation for cheese

Morton nostalgically described her time at Murray’s as “magical” and said that “every day was almost Christmas. Every day, I just opened up a new cheese present.”

Murray’s Cheese imports quality cheeses from Europe, specializes in American cheeses and takes care of hundreds of cheeses through affinage. Morton gained valuable experience at Murray’s, and her time there inspired her to dive deeper into cheese.

Her new interest led Morton to move to North Carolina to work as a cheesemaker at Chapel Hill Creamery, where she could learn more about affinage, sustainability, and animal husbandry.

“It was really eye-opening to be able to work on an actual farm in a rural place, to be able to see the routines of what it’s like to take care of the animals… [and] what to do with the milk in terms of cheese,” Morton said.

During her time at the creamery, Morton learned about the intricate variables cheesemakers must control to create their desired cheese.

Every detail counts in cheesemaking

After her time in North Carolina, Morton spent a few years teaching wine and cheese classes in Paris. She now lives in Annecy, a city near the border of France and Switzerland, where she makes and ages artisanal cheeses.

She has learned that each cheese requires precise attention to detail.

“The most difficult thing about what I do is consistency,” Morton said. “Every little, minute thing from the amount of salt we use to the water temperature, or how we decide to drain the whey affects the product.”

Morton must work efficiently and effectively throughout the making and aging process to ensure the proper care of thousands of cheeses.

The artisan cheese world is for everyone

The depth of history and culture of cheese worldwide is vast. However, Morton said experiencing artisan cheese firsthand is impactful. She feels people are afraid to seek out artisanal cheese because they believe that the culture around cheese is elitist.

“I want to encourage people that it does not matter where you come from, if it’s your very first day, [or] if your family has been doing this for hundreds of years. Everyone is welcome in this world,” Morton said.

“Don’t be afraid to talk to the people that work with cheese because trust us, or trust me, we’re geeks. We are more than happy and excited and willing to talk with you guys.”

Follow Morton on Instagram @thecheesemaven and watch her full interview with Ever.Ag here:

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Ever.Ag

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